The Two Fly Rods Float Tube System
The best rod length
for a tube fishing depends a lot on what line, what length of
line and hook sizes you will be using. The lake you fish will
dictate a lot of these points.
For tube fishing on the surface I use a ST 6 floater or
intermediate shooting head (DT cut in half) with a no 2 floater
level for shooting line.
The rod that does this best for me is a 10' 6" medium action.
It is soft enough that when netting a fish the rod is bent, and
not the full length extends over me. A bit long but manageable.
And it's long enough for dibbling droppers at short range to get
them up.
From the tube dibbling at long range is not necessary because
the trout will rise consistently closer to the tube than they
will for boating anglers. It's also soft enough that small hooks
will not be pulled out during playing big fish, due to excessive
rod stiffness. but not unduly soft.
The typical medium price general purpose no 6 beginner 10' 6"
rod has the action I describe at a low cost.
I CHANGE OVER AND BACK FROM FLOATER TO INTERMEDIATE DURING THE
DAY MANY TIMES WITH NO APPRECIABLE DELAY LONGER THAN CHANGING A
FLY. (OR SLOW SINK - FAST SINK) |

A pair of fly
rods for floating and sinking work |

Float tube casting a fly for fish
feeding along marginal reeds
|
Rods that are
Suitable
For
sub-surface fishing I use shooting heads ST wetcel 1, ST wetcel 11,
and occasionally ST wetcel 111.
Line weight of the sinking STs is no 6 or 8. (An ST no 7 might be more
general purpose)
The sinking heads are backed by dacron type braided 20 lb line which
sinks but is neutral, that is - it does not lift or pull down the
sinkrate of the selected ST in front of it.
The ST no 1 goes to 10 feet with two nymphs at normal retrieve speed.
The ST no 11 goes to 18-22 feet with the same, flies above or inline
with the line. But can be adjusted by chosing a single weighted nymph to
get the leader below the line.
The ST 111 is for 20 - 40 feet of water in clear conditions.
The rod that seems to suit these styles best is a 10' reservoir rod
rated 7-8 or 7-9. A rod in 9' 6" would do just as well. This rod has to
have backbone or you wont have crisp contact with the flies. But if it's
a fast taper competition casting rod you will get tired maintaining
casting velocity. So this action is maybe described as medium-fast.
I use an old Bruce & Walker Reservoir for this. Surprisingly I have not
seen many new rods that would substitute easily. It is a tad heavy for
smaller trout, but the sinking presentation is not for small trout.
|
Anyone who held an old
glass RW Farnborough knows the action that is exactly right, but in a
lighter carbon fibre rod. A modern medium-heavy reservoir comes close if
graded tip-middle action.
The overall stiff strength makes a rod hard work over a full day, but
the ability to bend in the middle mitigates this significantly. If you
find it tough at first - use an elastic wrist strap around the rod
handle below the reel to move the workload onto your forearm which won't
get tired.
All my tubing lines have a 4-5" loop at their back end, and all backings
have the same on the front. To change line it is a simple matter to
retrieve the line to the point where I can swing the back of the ST to
hand. Take the ST loop. Now pull on it until I also have the front too
with a 15' loop (30' head doubled) downwind in the water. A slow finning
speed keeps it all away and tangle free.
|

Perch on the Dropper Corixa |
Hook on the leader and
wind it fly-end first onto a large spool, rubber band the rear end, and
pass the entire spool through the large backing loop to release it.
Take alternative ST on it's spool, pass spool through the backing loop
to make two loops knot, roll off into the water. ( or just strip in the
line at the reel in the conventional way to extend the new ST) Ready.
Time taken to switch from slow sink, to fast sink maybe 60 -90 seconds.
With this system two rods does everything.
No taking the reel off to change line, and someday dropping it
overboard.
No problem threading rod rings awkwardly with A new line while out in
the tube.
No rod for each line, just two. One softer longer rod for top and one
shorter stronger rod for mid-bottom. |

Fly Pike from Float Tube |
|
The reason for selecting the ST no 6 (over lighter lines) when floating
line fishing for trout is that it can penetrate wind on back-cast
better, which helps avoid tangles while fishing a three fly leader. A no
5 is ok in calmer conditions, and I have the 5 rod too but don't choose
it so often. I would end up fishing shorter leaders or fewer flies.
|
Brown Trout |
|