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Fly Fishing for Pike in
Ireland from Float Tubes .....
Floating
on Ireland
Reproduced here with
kind permission from the author:
Chris McCully
www.chrismccully.co.uk
Sometimes I think I
fell asleep some time in the recent past, then woke up in a weird
parallel universe. Last week I opened my eyes and there in front of me
were 14 Dutch guys, one lady, and 15 Dutch belly-boats, all floating on
Co. Leitrim. I was, similarly, floating on Ireland. And all of us, all
day, every day, for the whole of a week, were fishing for Irish pike
using fly-rods and streamers.
We were
based in Ballinamore. It’s a great base for pike trips. In the
vicinity are a number of different, relatively small loughs, all of
which hold pike. To the west there are the limestone plains of Co.
Mayo, to the north the expanses of Lough Allen and Erne, while to the
south-east there are the great lakes of the Irish midlands – Sheelin,
Ennell and Derravarragh. All of this pike fishing is within a 2-hour
drive from Ballinamore.
Float-tubes offer many advantages to the pike fisher. They’re cheaper
than hire boats. They’re quiet, pollution-free, and allow you access to
underwater features – principally weed-beds and drop-offs – which would
be out of range of a bank fisherman’s deadbaits. In my view the prime
advantage is that a tube allows you to cover particular marks
(drop-offs, plants, rocky headlands) slowly, holding the craft in
position by paddling, covering the water from subtly different, patient
angles.
There are
some disadvantages. It’s impossible to cover miles of water in one day,
as you perhaps might want on a big lough, and therefore tubing is
probably best practiced on relatively small stillwaters, or in the bays
of greater ones. Again, float-tubing can be hard work, particularly in
a wind stronger than Beaufort 5. It can be disconcerting, too, knowing
you’re out there in a stiff blow in bags full of compressed air. It can
be exceedingly wet (but so can regular boat fishing); it’s probably
unwise to go float-tubing in the depths of winter; casting range, even
with a 10-weight fly-rod, is relatively limited; and in the same high
wind, control of the streamer might perhaps be less than total.
The
advantages outweigh the disadvantages, I think. In terms of sheer
excitement, very little in fishing can compare with hooking and landing
a big late-summer or autumn pike from a tube. Even a low double-figure
fish – and during the past week we caught plenty of those – will prove
to be a handful when hooked among pondweed and lilies, and the running,
open, head-shaking play of these magnificent creatures, when caught on a
single-handed fly-rod, really has to be experienced to be believed.
Our choice
of gear had to be tough and simple. This is an independent, rugged form
of pike fishing that will test you and your tackle to the limits.
During the past week, for instance, we suffered at least three broken
fly-rods between us, and these were rods from famous makers. The
stresses of casting big streamers from a tube in what were often high
winds proved too much for the blanks. Thankfully, my own Greys Platinum
Saltwater XDA – a 4-piece 9-footer rated for 10-weight lines – proved
utterly trouble-free and reliable. A great rod, and although you don’t
need to cast a long line from the tube, the rod also has sufficient
speed and power to generate awesomely long casts should you need them.
I coupled
the rod with a Partridge S series fly-reel which has a first-rate drag,
plenty of capacity, and lovely cosmetics. There are those who’ll tell
you that hooked pike never run, and that a fly-reel for pike streamer
fishing is just a receptacle for holding a bit of line. Don’t believe
them. Irish pike, are fast, tough customers. Five days ago I hooked a
fish which seized the streamer near a bed of reeds. In her first
unstoppable rush upwind she took out all the fly-line, plus ten yards of
backing. I paddled back to her in a stiff breeze. Then she got into
the biggest bed of pondweed and lilies she could find, and shed the
hook…. At moments like that you need an entirely trouble-free reel with
plenty of backing (50 yards minimum, and better 100).
Fly-lines
were almost universally 10-weight intermediates, though floating lines
were also employed. Rio, Snowbee and others make superb fly-lines for
this form of fishing. I used a Rio Outbound, whose steep front taper
means the rod will load quickly, minimising the need for endless false
casting.
The
business end of the gear needs thought and care. For total reliability
and simplicity I’d plump for 5 feet of 40lb. nylon knotted to a 10-inch
solid wire trace with a twist-link at the streamer end. But I’m
experimenting increasingly with titanium races, since these are so
flexible that they offer less leverage to a hooked pike. If you want to
make such a trace, join a 12-inch link of 30lb. titanium to 5 feet of
40lb nylon using an Albright Knot. Whip over this knot with thread, and
smear the knot with epoxy. At the hook end, knot the titanium either
to a snap-link, or to a small sub-trace of solid wire, which last has
been equipped with a twist-link. Knotting titanium is ticklish, despite
what the makers claim: I use artery forceps and pliers to draw the knot
into an open loop (don’t draw the knot too tight), then whip over the
knot and smear it with epoxy. Allow to dry.
And for
the streamers? Favourites were Bunny Bugs, Dubbel Dekkers and other
rabbit-strip streamers tied on 6/0 or 8/0 barbless singles. (The new Ad
Swier Absolute pike hook, marketed by Partridge, is a grand strong
hook.) These have a magnificently sinuous action in the water. The
Dubbel Dekker, in particular, has a wide profile when seen from below by
predatory eyes, and more than proved its worth in days of big winds and
broken light. Then again, on days of a smaller wave, and in clearer
waters, I preferred to use the lighter, more user-friendly Flash Flies,
tied on 6/0 barbed irons. These streamers, which were invented by the
Scandinavian angler Morten Valeur and which are described in Michael
Jensen’s Fly Fishing for Pike (Coch-y-Bonddu Books, 2003),
consist of nothing more than two bunches of tinsel or Flashabou spun
round chenille at either end of the hook, leaving the hook shank bare.
They’re supremely light to cast, have plenty of flash and action, and
can be fished beautifully among and above weed-beds at close range from
the tube. Draw the Flash Fly to the surface, look behind it for any
predatory eyes, then allow the streamer to sink between the strands,
fluttering as it goes…. I lost count of the number of pike that took at
this point, within a rod’s length of my flippers.
Into the
float-tube with you come rod and reel, a floating fly-box containing
half a dozen spare streamers, a couple of traces, a hook-stone, a piece
of towel, some nylon, and a pair of unhooking pliers. It’s wise to
attach the pliers either to your person (via a D-ring on a waistcoat),
or to the tube. I use a length of plastic chain which has whipped and
epoxied loops at either end. You might also like to take a digital
camera, and a tape measure. The Dutch habit is to measure pike rather
than to weigh them, and I think this is eminently sensible. It’s
speedier, safer, and kinder to the fish than weigh-sacks and scales, and
here too the float-tube offers advantages. You’re positioned close to
the lake, of course, and it’s therefore often possible to unhook the
pike in the water without handling it at all. If a fish does need the
pliers, then it will be close enough to your hand to employ a quietly
efficient gill-grip. Lift the fish out, supporting it with your free
hand if necessary; unhook it; measure it; return it, holding the pike
gently by the side of the tube until it regains strength and kicks
away. This takes around 15 seconds, or maybe 20 if someone’s taking a
photo.
In Dutch
terms, a fish of 80cms and more is a decent pike. A fish of 100cm is a
metervis, a specimen. Depending on the time of year, such a fish
will weigh anything between 14 and 20lbs. Fish over 100cm are becoming
seriously big pike, and if the tape shows 115cm and more then you’re
usually looking at a high 20.
I don’t
like in-your-face statistics in any form of angling. They seem to me
like a form of angling pornography. But if you insist on the numbers
for a week’s float-tubing in Ireland, then as far as I could work them
out the stats were something like 150 pike caught and returned over 5
full days fishing between 14 men and one lady. There were two days when
a cold front passed, a hard light shone, and fishing was tough for
everyone, but on the remaining days, of strong westerlies and
southerlies, we often did well, and every so often another bay of
another Irish lough would echo to another cry of ‘Yesss….’ We fished a
dozen different loughs, and there were plenty of pike between 75-90cm in
the totals. The three best were 105, 111, and 116cm.
The last
word goes to the barman at The Poor Scholar. Standing outside
the street door during his cigarette break he was confronted with the
sight of a minibus which sported a belly-boat tied to its roof. The
craft sat up there like some sort of damp, truncated McMichelin Man.
The barman rubbed his eyes with his free hand. ‘Youse go fishin’ in wan
of thim?’ We sketched the advantages of float-tubing. There was
a pause. The rain sluiced down. The barman sucked on his cigarette.
‘Well, boys,’ he said at last, ‘it’s the coolest thing I ever
seen….’
Fact File
There’s plenty of good pike fishing within striking
distance of Ballinamore, Co. Leitrim. The town, which offers good local
amenities, is within a 2-hour drive from Dublin.
We stayed at Glenview Country House, which offers B&B
and an evening meal. There’s accommodation in the main house, and/or in
two adjacent, well-equipped bungalows with their own kitchen
facilities. There’s plenty of storage space for float-tubes (there are
at least three large dry sheds on the property), drying facilities for
wet gear, and Glenview also have their own compressor, which makes
inflating a tube (and keeping it inflated) the work of a moment.
Recommended. Tel: +353 719644157. E-mail:
glenvhse@iol.ie
Ordnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series, sheets 26,
27, 33 and 34, will be useful.
U- and V- form boats are readily available. Buy the
best you can afford, and if possible, try before you buy. Outcast, Red
Devil (Parton), Creek Company and Wood River make (or made) good craft.
Useful to keep the dry weight down: a tube of 7kg dry weight is
transportable along with flippers, waders etc. without exceeding most
airlines’ baggage limits (20kg). A clam-shell design travel bag is ideal
for transport. Snowbee make a reliable, tough and roomy model.
Flippers. Creek Company make purpose-made flippers
which I find entirely adequate. These attach securely over normal
wading boots. Others favour Speed Fins, or even standard diving
flippers, worn over diving shoes or flats’ boots. The choice is yours –
but make sure you’re not going to lose a flipper, whatever system you
prefer.
You’ll need body waders. I use Snowbee breathables
and boots during summer and autumn, and 5mm. neoprenes during colder
months. That said, I rarely go tubing at all in winter. I have no
other excuses other than I’m getting old enough to wimp out.
A good wading jacket is also an essential. This
should have sufficient capacity in chest pockets for you to carry
smaller bits of kit on your person. You might also like to wear a
life-vest of some kind. A halter-style, automatically-inflatable vest
might just keep you afloat long enough to save your life if the worst
happens.
Hat, polarising glasses (plus a cord), sun cream
and/or lip salve are other essentials.
*
I’ve given three streamer patterns in the text whose
tying might be unfamiliar to UK readers. Here are the dressings:
Dubbel Dekker
(Ad Swier)
A large streamer
that’s effective both on stillwaters and on smaller canals. In its
larger sizes it fishes best on heavy-duty gear – 10-weight.
Hook:
sizes 2/0 (for smaller waters) to 8/0, barbless
Silk:
Big Fly thread, in any suitable colour
Under-tail:
bucktail, tied in bunches behind and on
either side of the shank. The object is to give the streamer a wide
profile when seen from underneath. (The bucktail also supports the
subsequent rabbit strip, and prevents the strip from wrapping rond
the hook shank during casting.) Lacquer the tyings generously after
the bucktail has been tied in
Over-tail:
Rabbit strip (zonker), followed by at least four saddle hackles,
followed by tinsel. A variant of the pattern uses two zonker strips
– a double Dubbel Dekker, as it were
Body:
wound rabbit strip (cross-cut). A useful variant
of the streamer uses raccoon strip
Head:
built up with tying silk, and then epoxied. When the epoxy is
semi-dry, press two holographic eyes into the epoxy. Allow to dry,
then a coat of clear varnish over the whole head
Bunny Bug
(Reynolds and Berryman)
Another large
streamer, though slightly lighter than the Dubbel Dekker. Can be
cast on 8- and 9-weight gear, though its marabou variant can be cast
on 7-weight tackle.
Hook:
2/0 to 6/0, barbless or de-barbed
Silk:
Big Fly thread
Tail:
rabbit (zonker) strip, topped optionally with a few strands of
tinsel or Flashabou. Although not specified in the original
dressing, some stiff bucktail can with advantage be tied in under,
and supporting, the rabbit strip. If you choose to omit the
bucktail, then whip in the zonker strip a few millimetres around the
hook-bend. This helps to prevent the strip wrapping round the
hook-shank during the cast
Body:
at the rear, wound marabou, then wound rabbit (cross-cut) strip. A
lighter variant – the streamer properly known as the Barr ‘Bou Face
– uses wound marabou plumes throughout, of the same or different
colours
Head:
built up with tying silk; holographic eyes; epoxy
Flash Flies
(Morten Valeur/ Michael Jensen)
You can fish smaller
sizes of Flash Flies perfectly adequately on 7-weight gear, though
in Ireland, or wherever I reasonably expect to catch bigger pike, I
use larger Flash Flies on 9- and 10-weights. I’ve taken pike in
Sweden, Holland and Ireland on these flies during the past year, and
because of their simplicity and ease of tying they’re among my
favourites.
Hook:
2/0 to 6/0, relatively fine-wire (Global Fly
Fisherman 6/0, code GFF 9000). Crunch down the barb with pliers if
you wish.
Silk:
Big Fly thread
Rear:
wind on two turns of glitter chenille at the rear of the shank.
Take a pencil-thin bunch of tinsel or (better) Flashabou and tie it
in around the chenille, bending back the butts of the fibres and
tying them down. The Flashabou should be evenly spread around the
shank, while the chenille prevents the Flashabou from catching under
the bend of the hook during casting. Whip finish at this point, and
varnish the whipping.
Front:
re-attach the thread just behind the hook eye and repeat the
process, this time using a bunch of Flashabou slightly shorter than
the tail lengths. Whip finish and varnish the head.
The result will be a
light, mobile streamer. It will take up to a dozen pike before
falling apart, but no pike streamer is invulnerable. Take time and
care with the choice of Flashabou. My favourite shade is a
silver-tinsel variety that looks green-silver in direct light, but
has a wonderful pink haze around it in transmitted light.
Ad Swier’s Passion for Pike,
edited by Chris McCully, published
in 2007 by Westerlaan Publishers. Copies
may be obtained from Coch-y-Bonddu Books, or direct from
www.westerlaan-publisher.com/pike.html
The
author Chris McCully's website is at:
www.chrismccully.co.uk
Copywrite
for this article is Chris McCully's reproduction only with permission of
the author.
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